Frequently Asked Questions

If you do not find your question or answer below, please feel free to reach out to us directly via phone or email...

Air-Lock

LowPro Summit Lock

Summit Lock

Proximal Lock

Grommet Lock

Coyote Composite

Coyote Pins

Easy-Off Lock

Coyote Valves

Connectors

Dynamic Strut AFO

Quik Glue

Kleenaire

There is no need to use a suspension sleeve with the Air-Lock, as long as you have a full contact socket.

When you fabricate with the Air-Lock, you are sealing off the bottom of the socket. No air is getting in from the bottom of the socket, creating suction in the socket. Air will still wick around the top of the socket, but it’s not being ‘forced’ into the socket meaning that the socket stays airtight.

*NOTE: If you opt to use a sleeve, an expulsion valve is needed.

A “whooshing” noise means the socket may not be properly sealed at the bottom because there is a gap between the top of the valve body and the top of the funnel allowing air to flow into the socket.

To test this, run some water through the socket to see where it is leaking. If that is the issue simply seal off the inside of the socket where the outer circle of the lock touches the socket. Adding a CQL Auto Expulsion Valve to the socket may also help.

A squeaking or clicking noise that repeats with every step, means the alignment may be off with the socket. You may need to add or remove spacers. If the patient is wearing socks, the metal end of the liner may be too long for the recess in the lock and it will ride on the inside of the lock and make the squeaking noise. To Fix: Try using a brass pin or put a P-Lite donut on the end of the liner

For the Air-Lock: 8 Click Pins: CD103P8 (two part pin) or CD103P8H (solid brass)

For the DEEP Air-Lock: 11 Click Pins CD103P11 (two part pin) or CD103P11H (solid brass)

*NOTE: 11-click pins should ONLY be used with the Deep Air Lock.

Parts are available to modify locks in existing sockets if the pin is bottoming out in the lock. To modify the lock you will need the Guide Pin (CD103GPN) and Pin Cap (CD103PC) and Coyote QUIK Glue.

Also: Loctite Blue 242 must be used on lock pin threads after determining the appropriate lock pin spacing.

The odds are very low in normal day-to-day activities that would cause the release button to be ‘bumped’ and cause the pin to disengage. The suction aspect of the lock helps reduce the risk even further. However, activities such as horseback riding, or motorcycle riding do present scenarios where it may be possible that the pin could disengage. If this is a serious concern the practitioner may consider using an Easy-Off Lock (CD117) instead of the Air-Lock.

The best lock we have for this and similar activity levels would be the Easy-Off Lock (CD117). The lever release is different, and you wouldn’t need to worry about ‘bumping’ it.

*NOTE: You could still use the Air-Lock (CD103) and you can fabricate a deep recessed button using the Exo Lamination Plug (CD103ELD). You can find more info on our website here. Another option would be to cap the button with the Release Button Cover (CD103RBC). The Air-Lock is hard to release, and it’s easy to build up around the button to further prevent this, and or done in the lamination with the Exo Lamination Plug.

In a new lamination, it is worth checking the lock housing for resin, sometimes that will leak into the lock and you end up with a thin layer of resin that causes issues. Because of the anchor, it is really thin and can be unnoticed. A squeaking or clicking noise that repeats with every step, means you may need to add or remove spacers. If the patient is wearing socks, the metal end of the liner may be too long for the recess in the lock and it will ride on the inside of the lock and make the squeaking noise. Try using a brass pin or put a P-Lite donut on the end of the liner or use a “Fitting Lock” to adjust spacers. Other things to check on the lock level include: lock condition, pin condition, check liner in hand, and pull to check.

*NOTE: If those options don’t work, you could try a ‘Bench Load Test’: Hold the posterior wall of the socket in one hand and hold the foot in the other hand. Then try to move in a posterior-anterior rocking motion to emulate the walking motion. Check every component to make sure all screws are tightened, including set screws and any metal touching metal.

We never put any lubricant anywhere near the lock, as that will eventually just attract more debris and dirt which wears out the lock faster. This is a good time to put a P-Lite donut on the liner to see if that helps reduce the noise. The noise may be from the liner rubbing against the socket. Rough up the liner a bit where it connects to the socket. If neither of the above works, try the brass pin.

Frequently Asked Questions

I'm using the Air-Lock for the first time. What parts do I need to order?

What material do you recommend for a check/test socket?

Is the Air-Lock water-resistant? What kind of maintenance is required when used in water?

Do I need to use a sleeve with the Air-Lock?

What liners do you recommend for the Air-Lock?

What are the L-Codes for the Air-Lock?

Can you use vacuum with the Air-Lock?

Why am I getting a whooshing or squeaking noise?

I didn't have a Housing O-Ring in my package. Is there supposed to be one with the Air-Lock package?

Can I shorten/grind down the Release Button?

What if my patient has difficulty pushing the Release Button?

Which pins do I use with the Air-Lock?

Is there a Drop-In Air-Lock?

What pin do I use for my Air-Lock if my liner has a different thread?

Are there any weight restrictions for the Air-Lock? Can I put a patient who weighs over 350 lbs. in a Air-Lock?

Can I use the Keasy Cone with the Deep Air-Lock(CD103D) instead of thermoplastic?

I have a stroke patient who is having trouble engaging the pin into the Air-Lock. They are having difficulty getting the pin in straight. Any tips or suggestions to address the issue?

The patient has a plastic on plastic sound with a brand new Air-Lock. They are using the standard pin and have tried adding spacers and removing/adding a sock to deal with sound issues. Nothing seems to be working for the long term. Please help!

I’m concerned about the possibility of accidental opening of the Air-Lock by hitting the release button on something and having a patient fall.

I have a patient that is an avid rock climber and needs something to prevent the lock from being released during this activity, something that doesn’t stick out and can get stuck."

What pins should I use (brass vs. standard) that decrease the shuttle being worn down?

I used the Air-Lock (CD103) in a check socket and it worked great. When I transferred it to the definitive socket if worked great at first but soon after developed a ‘clicking noise’. I took the lock out and the noise was gone. Question: What could be the cause of the noise?

My patient is in a polypro socket and developed a squeak around the Air-Lock (CD103). We thought it was the liner umbrella rubbing on the lock, so I added a sheath, and that did not help. I also cleaned the lock, retightened everything in the lock and the push button. The issue persists."

I am using a flexible inner liner with the Locking Lanyard. Does anything need to be done to prevent air from entering between flexible inner and inner socket at the lock level.

I’m using a Vivac Test Socket with the Air-Lock but no Alignable Four Connector. Is it possible to add a connector after blister molding?

I am using the Air-Lock with an adjustable connector to lock into the mold with a patient that has a lateral offset. There is some gaping and I am wondering what to fill that in with?

Does your vacuum station have inner and outer vacuum lines?